Islamabad: Svergun Igor the top climber of Ukraine was among killed climbers and tourists in Pakistan. Svergun Igor was born on 10 February 1966 in Ukraine that was part of USSR at the time of his birth. He was used to come to Pakistan for scalling mountains and climbed Gasherbrum-II in 2008 with Sergey Bershova on the normal route (in an expedition organized by the Kharkov regional club of climbers). Before the start of the ascent he sat at the foot of a plaque in memory of the two Ukrainian climbers: Victor SHEPHERD of Kharkov and krymchanina Gennady Vasilenko, who died in 1996 while trying to conquer the Shisha Pangma.
Igor Svergun twice conquered Mount Everest , have been on many eight-thousanders in the world. But one of the most significant climbs – South Face of Lhotse , even on top of it and went. Here’s what he says Igor Svergun this ascent: “This climb was my calling card. Wherever I have met with climbers when you say the password “Lhotse”, there is a genuine delight”.
He did is MS in mountaineering ( 1989 ), International Master of Sports ( 1991 ). He got several awards from Soviet Union and Ukraine for courage and was killed by terrorists on June 23, 2013 in Pakistan.
His awards include:
Government awards (the USSR and Ukraine) – the Order ” For Courage “( 1990 ).
The Order ” For merits ( 1996 )
The Order ” For Courage ( 1999 ).
Best ascent include:
Lhotse wall by Yu – to a height of 8,200 m ( 1,990 ), tr. Manaslu (with B. Shepherd and A. Makarov) ( 1991 ), Everest , Yu peak – 8790 m ( 1992 ), Dhaulagiri 8167 m ( 1994 ), Annapurna (mt Bonington) ( 1996 ), Shisha Pangma (alpine style) and climbing Ama Dablam and Pumori ( 1998 ), Cho Oyu , 8201 meters ( 2004 ), Everest , 8,848 m, on the northeast ridge ( 2005 , 2006 ).
Climb to: Manaslu 1991 with Alexei Makarov, Viktor Pastukhov – the first Ukrainian Himalayan expedition, led by Vladimir Shumikhin.
Ascent of: Anapurna 1996 with Sergey Bershova , Sergei Kovalev – from the south (in the expedition of the State Committee of Ukraine, headed by Mstislav Gorbenko).
Climb to:
One of the most difficult rescue operations – transportation V. Gorbach in 1999 , the while climbing Mount Everest with a height of 8600 m [1]
In this case, Reinhold Messner called the South Face of Lhotse – the route of the XXI century.
In June 2013, Igor Svergun was heading Ukrainian expedition to Nanga Parbat. On June 23, the camp was attacked by Islamic terrorists who killed Igor Svergun and several members of the expedition.
