Polish climber Aleksandra Dzik who could not finish her expedition to Nanga Perbat due to killing of climbers at base camp by Taliban has special love for Pakistan mountains and she climbed Gasherbrum II in year 2011 and she had no money for this expedition but managed to make her dream come true through funding from different organisations. Here is diary of her about her expedition of Gasherbrum II for your interest:
“Following is a 12-day stay in Pakistan, of which 6 days was a track, finally, 18 June, we admired the top of Gasherbrum I, being in the base camp.
Through the day the chef and kitsch battle, joining forces with hysterical laughter helped backpacks saddled us and we Ofigevshego a little of the weight of the “nothing more”, began to move toward the first camp. Some of the foreigners on the type of Olka our backpacks we christened «Strong and stupid». Well, of course, would be smart, have married in a more successful would go with a bunch of Sherpas, oxygen, and would not need each time leaving the camp, put “sotochku” fixed rope his backpack. Well … in a word … the solution was simply unforgettable!
On the way to the first camp.
Initially, the idea that it might be worthwhile to dream of something simpler and cheaper, do not let me rest. Yes, and maybe for 20 years too early …? The second exit in vain – whether, finally, the body after a year break, remember something about the height, or just turned 21. 🙂
Birthday cake is the base camp after the descent. Just do not ask what exactly characterize the two white stuff in the middle.
remember the morning of my birthday, the first thing I said to myself, it was something like: “Yeah, now I’m 21 … and I’m sitting at 6400 … then in head still did not increased … Well, okay, wait another. ” This has been our second outlet in which we, in company with Mr. Jacek Thaler (who dubbed us “Kolezhanki” – girlfriend in Polish), the first of the season made it to the second camp.
Realize it was especially nice after Italian phrases: «It is impossible», – who unsuccessfully tried to do the same.
Before going out in the 2nd camp.
I would like to tell you about Olga. You take the drive out and surname Dzik through the Polish-Russian translator … No wonder she got such a name … Well, not for nothing! Not girl power.And then, somehow, Jumar after this “no maiden by force,” I was able to explore a large part of the Polish obscene lexicon, and all because a normal railing replaced the “fishing line”, and even the frozen and our pretty, all so much favorite, «Petzl» keep refused. In between convulsive remembering everything that says Olga, I mentally thanked his father, who before leaving said, “Here, take a try, I’m on Ama Dablame liked” – and handed it to me, as I later dubbed the “little blue bubbly Thing . ”
the same “sinenkaja wonderful little thing.” And do not try to be clever and say that it is called «Lift», Olga and now we know exactly how to call it …
I am at the moment, it seems, even the brain does not included – just threw it in the trunk … Y-yeah … What can I say? … Dad fumbles 😉 sinenkaja thing, it seemed, was willing to keep even the laces.
After two nights in the second was the descent into the first camp, rails under the snow, to determine the direction of motion in the mist only by the sound of avalanches Gasherbrum 4 – in general the weather is no longer indulge. And the next day trampled path in bazlag.
Camp 2 – 6,400 m., in dalike visible Camp 1 – 5800m.
A week later, we are again at 6400 – you want to get into the third camp. With us only Jacek.The other fold and go down – like otakklimatizirovalis. Well, at least for us to put together all the ropes for handrails, which were in the second camp and wished good luck to all … However, we have not been able to hang – the weather …
Olga, above 2nd.
First, we have all been waiting weather to continue the path up, then – just the same raved descent down … Total six days on 6400. The last two – are particularly memorable. Has already decided who will eat first … sort of as a joke … but overall it was not very funny …. I remember just the tears in her eyes welling up when on the fifth day I was looking at a satellite phone, wondering what to write dad. I could not tell lies … and the truth … and the truth, I too could not decided yet … contact through Olin mom (what a sweet woman!), Which now and then asked what she could to help us. And wanted to say, “Please send cakes and toilet paper, and even Tolstoy already ending!”.
yet there was a time discussed methods more aggressive work with the sponsors. Olga suggested using gloves are bulkier, I – ice ax 🙂
We woke up one day and started to tell me that someone dreamed of. I gladly recall: “A guy I dreamed of the Korean team, the same one that young and simpatishny.” “Yes? So what do you do? “- Said Olga, waiting for something interesting for sure.
“We were eating. Ate meat!! ”
But this is, after all, is over …. We finally see something other than “can not see anything” and began to descend …
You see these oranzhevenkie spots left from our tent? So, somewhere in there, too, standing tent …
The only redeeming feature of this high-altitude fitness – is that even in the snow ceases to fall.;Traces left – mine.
After 12 days with the hope that all the bad weather has waited in bazlage and that tomorrow will be our happiness, in the form of sun and clear sky (as promised all forecasts), Olga and we finally were in the third camp, preparing for storm the night. Thinking about the upcoming day, both were anxious. I remember I told Ole something like: “Do not worry, tomorrow we will both go up and come down safe and sound” – as in most everything inside was compressed when looking towards the top. Three days later, standing in bazlage, my head was already happy: “It turned out, we did it!” … But those three days …
Our beauty on the way to the third camp, the day before the assault.
The good weather? It would be naive! Seemed to say most of the assault of the day we were up the mountain. It was a really tough day.
were all kinds of …
There were miracles
in the form of men, occurring on the rise and the bugging of the backpack piece of meat at the mere mention of it aloud (dream was prophetic :)) and treated with cola! Or just speaking words of encouragement that just like Red Bull, “Nadayut kryla.” Yes, to be honest, it was wonderful that we were still in the day on top.
There was pain.
Having protracted traverse after the fourth camp, we sat down with Olga breath. Shlos good, really good. But after staying up was not easy … I never would have thought that cramps in the legs can deliver a range of sensations. I did not think that they can be so frequent and painful … But I was lucky – the most interesting body left on the descent, between 3m and 4m where the railing and when the top was already over.
There was a struggle.
After hours of 9 am, due to the weather turned bad, everything was quite fun. Amid all this “fun”, I remember Ol’kin figure ahead … If before lifting on the “triangle”, fresher shlos me, at some point I even heard of her sentence: “Mary, well, I’m not Dennis!” – Alludes on the pace, then after – Olenka seems decided to disprove this statement. Leaving the bag before getting up, she turned on the acceleration! It seems that the increasing wind just gave her strength … Fighter! 🙂
Oh, this wind! I wanted to pull out of the face inward, especially the nose a little deeper, but because of the physiological defects of the body and failed to do so. Oh, and once again – to breathe so sure it would be less convenient .; I mentally repeated the word in the queue, which usually tell myself to the occasion: “Work, be patient, sandal.” That somehow and doterpeli to the top … and then to the tents.
we are at the top of 8035.
And, unfortunately, was the death of …
Finally, after a third camp, I looked familiar to Iranians. Usually cheerful and friendly, they were sitting in a tent in stone-faced silence. When asked, “What happened?” Was the short answer is: “You do not know? Leila died “(Leila-climber from Iran. In 2009 ascended Nanga Parbat, and the leader of the expedition was, in 2010, was an unsuccessful attempt K2. This was her second attempt is for the summit on this expedition.) … They argued that it fell down from the top, flew a lot of the hill and ….
“That can not be, we stood together at the top! Leila began to descend first, but I did not see that it frustrated! “… I resent the inconsistencies in the evidence, to find the truth somewhere … But, unfortunately, it was true. Though we strive to walk with Olga in dramatically opposite style of Leila and were familiar with it quite a bit – it is impossible not to respect her character, her beliefs, her strength of spirit. We can not forget her eyes ….
Having survived the storm, the next day we went down to the first camp. Frankly speaking, this day seemed so much easier. In the vestibule of Olka blown away backpack with down things she had to go down a makeshift backpack made of nylon bag, sleeping pad and rope (fortunately, the next day she found him, coming under the western wall of GII).
Camp 1, 5800m.
I’m already an hour’s walk from the first camp, began to seriously try to persuade her backpack to trade places … I wish Claudia Ivanovna did not agree: (. Generally, as in the day of the assault, it was fun … We got to the first in the dark . And in the morning, more than ever, like a rug and pretend to lie here as long as possible, so that no one noticed, no one has touched … but not a ride :). It was during this time had to decide whether I will stay on Hidden Peak, already without Olga, because the program we have dragged on, and she was scheduled commercial expedition in Kyrgyzstan and it is difficult to have time to go there. Even before the storm I promised myself that if all the limbs are in place and not frostbitten, there will be other damage – remain, even if the chances are minimal. All organs and limbs were something safe and sound, but that’s bad luck, yet somehow wrong to me on Eight loner walking around … There was only one option – the team Iranians. Oh, and peregovorchiki were … Knowing the negative attitude of the leader of the women in the mountains and the fact that two days before this conversation killed his compatriot, hard to believe in success. In general, you need to give him credit, he resisted for a long time as I could, tried to divert the food to move the conversation in bazlag, so that the battle had to use “heavy artillery”. Promise every day to do a massage. Ha! Surrendered! 🙂
One is holding in her arms, kissing the other legs … Olya all goes according to plan 🙂
later, Olga almost immediately gathered, said goodbye and went to the track …
Over our being different in some ways, sometimes even made fun of. For example, if I have the day without meat, and can not imagine, Olia it sometimes can not even see. However, we had one dream, to fulfill which we have come a long way together. The path length of about eight months, which began from the time when she offered to go along to Pakistan. And all this time, we supported each other and believe that we will succeed. During this same support as well as for the faith not only in ourselves but in me, I want to tell her thank you. Support in the form Oli left, felt sad and even scary. Although … climbing to 8000 under the supervision of the Iranians?It definitely should have been a lot of fun …. To be continued.
Gasherbrum I, but more on that in the next article 🙂